Becoming Jiennense: or, how one Masshole found a home in Jaén

There’s a popular saying here in Jaén – “se entra llorando y se sale llorando”. In other words, you arrive to Jaén in tears of desperation, asking yourself what in God’s name you’ve done to verge so far from your life’s path to have found yourself deep within Spain’s olive country on a sweltering 40C/100F […]

La cocina andaluza: eating my way through southern Spain

Disclaimer alert: I like Spanish food – I really do – but it is far from my favorite. Maybe I’ll get a lot of heat for starting off a post like this from Spaniard and non-Spaniard pals alike, but a girl’s gotta keep it real (al pan, pan y al vino, vino). I love a […]